Noble rot, I’ve always thought, is a very ugly name. The French call it pourriture noble, but I find that a little clumsy too. Unusually, I think the German name, Edelfäule, is the most elegant.

Also known as Botrytis cinerea in Latin, it is a fungus that plays a crucial role in the creation of some of the world’s most cherished wines.

Under the right conditions when this benign fungus infects white grapes, it causes them to shrivel. This leaves unsightly berries but ones that deliver super-concentrated sweetness and flavour, tempered by a zinging acidity. The wines made from these grapes are usually described as having rich, honey flavours with a contrasting bitterness on the finish.

This sweetness makes Botrytised wine the perfect partner with puddings and blue veined cheeses, but I prefer to savour a glass on its own; a pudding in its own right.

Germany has its Trockenbeereenauslese, Hungary its Tokaj but arguably the most celebrated botrytised wines come from the Sauternes region of Bordeaux. Here, sauvignon blanc and semillon are used to make the wines from famous names, such as Château d’Yquem.

A bottle of Yquem will set you back a few quid however, so I’ve picked two less expensive wines from Sauternes this week and thrown in a Kiwi sticky made from sauvignon blanc, as a contrast.

The Cooperative has ChâteauRoumieu 2007 on offer during the festive period. It’s a capable and very drinkable, budget example, touting flavours of honeycomb, orange peel, apricot and ginger.

Waitrose’s own label Sauternes is produced for the supermarket by Château Suduiraut. This is a step up the quality ladder and the wine is very rich and concentrated. It has aromas of honeysuckle and long flavours of orange marmalade, golden syrup and sweet spices, with a refreshing lift of acidity on the finish.

The Ned Noble Sauvignon Blanc 2009 is from the Waihopai River region of Marlborough, in New Zealand. Only 70 per cent of this wine is made with botrytised grapes, meaning it isn’t overpoweringly sweet, making it perfect with light fruit desserts. It’s packed with luscious tropical fruit flavours, grapefruit and honey, balanced with a zesty acidity.

• ChâteauRoumieu 2007, Sauternes, (37.5cl), £7.99 at The Cooperative 17/20.

• Waitrose Sauternes 2006, (37.5cl), £13.49 at Waitrose 17/20.

• The Ned Noble Sauvignon Blanc 2009, (37.5cl), £9.99 each when you buy two at Majestic 18/20.