Most people fly through Gargrave on their way to the Lake District - but they are missing a gourmet treat in the High Street.

Woods Bistro is among an attractive row of cottages on the right opposite the river Aire and we chose the restaurant to enjoy an evening out with six other friends.

When we arrived at 8pm on Saturday, we were greeted warmly at the bar and there were about 20 other people already dining. I guessed there was room to dine about 40.

With two of us driving, we ordered only three bottles of wine - two white and a red and plenty of water.

Fish and fowl were obviously the specialities and that night salmon was on offer in a variety of dishes. So I plunged in and ordered salmon fishcake as a starter.

It was more like a salmon ball, presented on a large white dish with mayonnaise and decorated with red peppers. The shell was crisp and golden brown and, when I broke it open, pleasantly aromatic. It could have had a little more salmon but that did not spoil my enjoyment.

The others started with either pea, pear and watercress soup, deep fried brie or hot salad with bacon.

The second course quickly followed the first - a welcome change from many restaurants when the wait can drag on.

Keeping with the fishy theme, I chose cod amd mash. Mash being my only culinary speciality at home, I waited in anticipation. The cod was superb - flaky, firm and flavoursome.

But I cannot give top marks for the mash. It was slightly lumpy and heavy, possibly made too long before being served. It is so easy to make light and fluffy with the right potatoes and application.

The others were voluble in praise of their main courses, especially my wife who chose tarragon chicken with new potatoes. All the dishes came with a variety of succulent vegetables.

The final course came after a welcome break and still having some room, I went for the sticky toffee pudding with custard. It was delicious - not too sweet and enhanced with dates.

It was a very pleasant evening in good company and fine food to match. The bill came to just less than £25 a head, including a round of drinks at the bar when we arrived.

Clive White

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