Travel: W Edinburgh and Sushisamba and One Day views

Anyone who has watched it will not only have fallen in love with main characters Emma and Dexter but also the breathtaking Edinburgh skyline, which features prominently throughout the drama.

The morning after the night before, Em and Dex walk up Arthur’s Seat - the dormant volcano that sits in the heart of the Scottish capital like a giant, green, sleeping lion - and take in the incredible view of the city. For years, fans of the story (it was a successful novel and film before it was adapted into a series by Netflix) have been making a pilgrimage to Edinburgh to walk in the couple’s footsteps and see that view for themselves, panning across from the Greek-inspired columns of Calton Hill, down to Princes Street and the giant clock face of the Balmoral Hotel, the Gothic rocket ship of the Scott Monument to the fort-like castle sitting high up on the Old Town ridge.

But now there’s a new vantage point to take in Edinburgh’s historic highlights.

The W is the Marriot’s five-star hotel, newly opened in the heart of the city, a five-minute stroll from Waverley Railway Station at the east end of Princes Street (and next to the St James retail centre full of shops, restaurant and an Everyman cinema.

View of Carlton Hill from rooftop terrace at W Edinburgh (Image: W Hotel, Edinburgh)

The hotel has become a talking point among locals because of its design and scale. Indeed, it has become a new landmark with its golden curl peeking out above Edinburgh’s historic gems and visible from many vantage points. The architects envisaged it as a ‘falling ribbon’ to reflect Edinburgh as a city of festivals and celebration.

The 'Ribbon building' is the latest addition to the Edinburgh skyline (Image: Maxine Gordon)

It is called the Ribbon building, however, locals have christened it something else altogether - ‘golden turd’, on account, they say, of it resembling the coil shape of the poo emoji. Needless to say, national media have picked up on this. However, I’m sure hotel bosses can’t be too alarmed. After all, they say there’s no such thing as bad publicity.

Maxine in her home city, with the new landmark W Edinburgh hotel behind (Image: Maxine Gordon)

Surely the measure of any new hotel has to be not just what it looks like, but what it is like to visit. Which is just what I did, when I was invited to review the complete W experience.

From the glass of champagne on arrival to the bespoke cocktails waiting at the sit-up bar in my room, I knew this was some place rather special. A tour of the hotel cemented this view. There is nowhere quite like this in Edinburgh. Born and raised in Edinburgh, I still get a thrill from seeing the city from up high. Normally, I climb up Calton Hill, Salisbury Crags or Arthur’s Seat in the Queen’s Park, but now I know an easier way. Just take the lift to the bar at the W or its Sushisamba restaurant and savour all those Edinburgh sites.

W Edinburgh with views overlooking the city (Image: W Edinburgh)It’s only from inside the hotel that the controversial design starts to make sense. From the outside, the giant swirl of ‘ribbon’ dominating the skyline seems too exotic, curvy, shiny, for this city built of stone, often cast under a grey-white sky. Yet from the inside it seems to be at the beating heart of the city; the eyes of the capital, through which you can see the city at its best. Those curves are in fact open terraces that wind round the hotel; the higher up you go, the better the view. The best experience is at the pinnacle, where a roof-top bar with 360-degree views will open in summer.

I had cocktails in the hotel bar and a sensational dinner at Sushisamba. From the wall of glass windows it was magical to see Edinburgh lit up at night. The cocktail menu is a bit different. Not the usual suspects , but the essence of them are here, with a Celtic twist. Many are named after Scottish or Irish myths or creatures and have an English as well as Gaelic name.

Maxine enjoys a cocktail in the hotel bar (Image: Maxine Gordon)

My pre-dinner date was The Trickster (Amadan Dubh), a delicious mix of white rum, cherry, grapefruit sherbet, house-made grenadine and lime. Zingy and refreshing, it was the perfect palate sharpener ahead of dinner at hotel restaurant Sushisamba, one floor higher.

The Sushisamba menu fuses flavours of Japan and South America (Image: Maxine Gordon)

At first glance, the Sushisamba menu seems an odd one, mixing flavours of Japan with those of Southern America. There’s sushi as well as steak - surf and turf, with the W spin! We picked the Taste of Samba menu, at £95. It was a food marathon - dressed for a Paris catwalk. We nibbled on salty edamame beans and crispy plantain chips then mini tacos filled with succulent lobster laced with avocado and shallots. Little parcels of Wagyu beef came next, served as gyoza dumplings, then shrimp tempura. We paused to enjoy our bottle of delicious Portuguese Vinho Verde before a generous platter of sushi. Black cod with miso, beef skewers and asparagus cooked in robata style came next. We found reserves for dessert: sticky toffee and banana pudding with ice-cream and roasted pineapple served with a jammy and brioche-like roll. After a nightcap, we retired to our room.

The shower and toilet are in two separate cubicles with the wash basins in the bedroom, as a divider between sleeping and showering areas. This open-plan design suited us, but some travellers might prefer a bit more privacy when sharing a room.

Breakfast, £25 per head, is served until 10.30am. There was a fantastic choice, including a full Scottish breakfast, waffles and continental choices. We had the Rabanada, a thick doorstep of Brazilian French toast, smothered in Dulce De Leche and with a scoop of sweet potato butter. Heavy going, hearty, and sweet!

Off season, rooms start at around £200, rising to £800 at peak times. Suites are available too. With Edinburgh just a few hours on a train, anyone looking for somewhere special to stay should dial W for wonderful.

* W Edinburgh, 1 St James Square, Edinburgh. T: 0131 388 8000