HUNKERING down in a cosy wooden lodge, tucking into hearty winter soup, felt like being sky high on a snowy piste.
But you don’t need to fly off to a ski resort to experience this Alps dining experience - it’s right here in Yorkshire, in the heart of the Dales.
The Golden Lion’s Alpine Village is back by popular demand, bringing ski lodge dining to Settle this festive season.
The inn’s lovely old stables have been transformed into a winter lodge, with five smaller huts taking over the courtyard, offering cosy drinking and dining spaces. Wrapped in blankets and throws, enjoying a festive dinner, afternoon tea or a Christmas tipple in the Alpine Lodges is a delightful way to celebrate the season.
Nestled in the centre of Settle, The Golden Lion is a 17th century coaching inn offering a country getaway , delicious dining and Daniel Thwaites cask ales.
We arrived to find the historic Dales town bathed in twinkling festive lights, with a Christmas tree centre-stage in the market square. There was a warm welcome at The Golden Lion, where a splendid fire was crackling in a huge stone hearth, adorned with Christmas stockings and a festive wreath. With wooden beams and a sweeping staircase, it’s a perfect rustic haven for a December break.
The inn has a range of bedrooms, blending original features of the building with contemporary chic. Our spacious Character room, with a sofa and cosy window seat, fused vibrant country tweeds and warm shades of olive and cream, with a lovely flying duck feature wall. Little extras, such as home-made biscuits, local fudge and fresh milk, were much appreciated.
After a drink in the bar, which has lovely old photos of Settle on the walls, we dined in a snug corner of the restaurant. There are two stylish dining areas, as well as the bar.
We were treated to the festive menu; for a starter I had the tasty Parsnip and Apple Soup, with parsnip crisps and a mini tin loaf. Just the thing for a winter evening. My sister, Sophie, had Smoked Salmon and Horseradish Roulade with potato, dill and caper salad. I had a chunk of it from her plate - delicious! Other festive starters included Pulled Ham Hock and Blue Cheese, Walnut and Wild Mushroom Tart, while the regular menu has Braised Pig Cheek and Smoked Blue-Shell Mussels among starters.
Festive mains included Pulled Beef Wellington and Traditional Roast Turkey, which Sophie went for. Served with homemade stuffing and pigs in blankets, it was “Christmas on a plate”. I had the Walnut, Cashew and Chestnut Roast. I’m not always a fan of nut roasts, but this was excellent. The melt-in-the-mouth roast was full of rich flavours. Served with plant-based pigs in blankets, root vegetables and homemade stuffing, it was a fabulous seasonal dish.
Other mains included Twaites Beer-Battered Fish, Settle Pudding with steak and Thwaites ale filling and Golden Lion signatures Spiced Cauliflower and Lentil Tagine and Seabass Fillet.
We had just enough room for desserts. Christmas pudding was on the menu, along with Passionfruit Creme Brulee and Coconut Panna Cotta. I had a lovely apple crumble with cinnamon ice-cream and ginger tuile, while Sophie indulged in a gorgeous Chocolate and Cointreau Tart with praline ice-cream.
The staff were delightful; friendly and attentive, extending a warm Yorkshire welcome throughout our stay.
Next morning, after a hearty cooked breakfast, we wandered around Settle, browsing the independent shops. There’s an array of them dotted about - bookshops, boutiques, interiors, artisan bakeries, cheesemongers and wonderful antiques shops filled with all kinds of curios. For retail respite there’s the famous Ye Old Naked Man Cafe, dating back to 1663.
Standing at the gateway to Upper Ribblesdale, the ancient market town is a short drive from the mighty Three Peaks, spectacular Malham Cove and Goredale Scar, pretty Dales villages such as Giggleswick, Austwick and Clapham, and the Ingleton Waterfall Trail. Straddling North Yorkshire and Lancashire, the area is also well placed for trips to Cumbria and the Southern Lakes.
I could tell you that we spent the day fell walking around Settle, but it was raining so shopping was way more appealing. After purchasing Christmas gifts, we dried off by the fire in the Golden Lion bar then made our way to the Alpine Lodge for festive afternoon tea.
The whopping savoury selection comprised parsnip and apple soup, cheddar and paprika twist, prawn cocktail, a mini pork pie, roast turkey and sage stuffing sandwich, haddock goujon with sea salt chips and a veggie burger. We didn’t know where to start! The cooked food stayed warm on its stand, with outdoor heaters keeping the lodge cosy.
Sweet treats were cranberry and white chocolate scone with clotted cream, peppermint and dark chocolate macaron, Thwaites IPA treacle tart and a mince pie - my first of the season! It was all delicious, and such a treat to dine al fresco, with the dramatic fells rising above us. All we needed was some snow.
Staying at this charming Dales inn was like being wrapped in a warm hug - and its fabulous festive food experience felt like Christmas had arrived.
* The Golden Lion, Duke Street, Settle. Call 01729 822203, email relax@goldenlionsettle.co.uk or visit goldenlionsettle.co.uk. The Festive Afternoon tea is served 12noon-4pm.
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