Visits to British abbeys tend to involve centuries-old ruins.

Fountains Abbey, Rievaulx Abbey, Whitby Abbey – we are accustomed to seeing these once-great buildings, once home to hundreds, as shadows of their former selves, having fallen victim to Henry Vlll’s Dissolution of the Monasteries in the 16th century.

So it is both interesting and refreshing to visit an abbey which is both completely intact and fulfilling its role as the centrepiece to a thriving monastic community.

In a stunning setting in the Howardian Hills, North Yorkshire, Ampleforth Abbey has been home to Benedictine monks since 1802.

On the cold December day, we visited the centrepiece, the Abbey Church, which was wreathed in fog, the central tower looming eerily into the clouds. Designed by renowned architect Sir Giles Gilbert Scott, the abbey is not large by cathedral standards, but Scott considered that proportion was more important than size in making a memorable impression, plus the size of the site was limited by existing buildings at either end.

Clad in black cassocks, the monks are very much in evidence from the moment you arrive, going about their business. They appeared to be extremely busy on the day of our visit, hurrying purposefully along corridors. We soon discovered why.

The monastery is attached to Ampleforth College, one of the country’s leading independent schools.

That afternoon, young children from the nearby preparatory school, St Martin’s, were holding a carol service for parents.

At other times, visitors are welcome to look around and join the monastic community in the Abbey Church for Mass and Divine Office.

We began our visit at the specially-created visitor centre which opened two years ago. We were warmly welcomed by Father Kentigern Hagan, who joined the community 26 years ago. A history teacher for 15 years, he now helps members of the public keen to find out more about life in the monastery.

“I really enjoy working in the centre. Visitors help to keep my eyes fresh,” he told us, giving us a free information pack and Sounds Of Ampleforth CD – recordings made in the abbey.

Fr Hagan first visited the monastery 40 years ago, when he had thoughts of becoming a monk. “I went back and it became my home,” he says.

As well as information boards, the centre plays a short film, Life At Ampleforth, in which monks talk about their experiences.

“I was at university, and when I told my girlfriend that I was thinking about becoming a monk, she giggled,” says abbey chaplain Father Chad, who before joining walked from London to Ampleforth “to put some distance between what I did before.”

The monks talk of the three vows of teaching – obedience, servility and a changing way of life. Some struggle with different vows, one explains: “Some don’t stay – when that happens it is a great sadness, like walking out on a marriage.”

The film is interesting and informative, offering a glimpse into life in a modern day monastery.

Also at the centre – which has interactive pieces for children – we learned about a commodity for which the monks are famous. Ampleforth Abbey cider is made from apples grown in the monastery's orchard – England's most northerly commercial orchard, with more than 2,000 trees. The award-winning brew is produced from more than 40 varieties of apple that are grown there.

Also hot off the presses in the monastery’s cider mill are cider brandy, Ampleforth Amber Liqueur and apple juice. Beer is also brewed on the site, and sloe gin is made from sloes gathered from around the school’s rugby pitches.

“We drink our cider and beer on special occasions like Christmas, not every day,” Brother Columba Moujing tells us in the abbey gift shop, where my husband bought a couple of bottles of cider to take home.

Brother Moujing came from Malaysia in 2002 and, after years of study, will become a Father next year. When I first came here, it was hard to acclimatise,” he says. “The food was so different. In Malaysia we eat rice every day, then here it was always potatoes, and the weather!”

Now he prefers the North Yorkshire weather to that of his homeland. “I am used to it now,” he laughs.

Monks and staff at the abbey are so kind and friendly, each taking time to answer our questions.

Shortly before the carol service we were able to pop into the Abbey Church. The lofty interior is designed along simple lines, with non of the ornate decor and trappings you would perhaps expect in a Roman Catholic abbey.

Set in 2000 acres of land, the abbey’s grounds include woodland and a lake. The public can access certain areas of it for walking and cycling. We were given a map showing a lakeside trail, which we intend to follow in spring.

Before heading home, the Tea Room beckoned – and what a lovely room it is, with furniture made by ‘mouseman’ Robert Thompson’s craftsmen, famed for incorporating carvings of mice into their pieces.

‘There are 40 mice in this tea room’ says a sign, prompting visitors to peer under tables and chairs.

Much of the fare is homemade – the cakes and scones are delicious. I would definitely recommend it for afternoon tea.

Factfile

  • Ampleforth Abbey is three miles from the A170 Thirsk to Scarborough road.
  • Abbey Church tours are held on Thursdays. Tours of the orchard and cider mill can be arranged.
  • For more details ring (01429) 766000 or visit visitors.ampleforth.org.uk There is no admission charge, but donations are welcome.