If Phil Spencer and Kirstie Allsopp had been around in the 12th century they would certainly have approved of the siting of Rievaulx Abbey.

While I doubt the Cistercian monks who built the monastery ever used the 21st century property hunters’ buzzwords ‘location, location, location’, they definitely considered them.

You could not have a more perfect spot for a place to live and work. At the base of a wooded valley, it is sheltered from buffeting winds, the River Rye runs alongside, bringing water, and the surrounding soils are suitable for grazing and crops.

On top of all this, it is beautiful. Today the ruin continues to stand proud among the deciduous woodland, the sparkling river, the York stone cottages and church in this picturesque hamlet.

Managed by English Heritage, the ruins are the most important of any Cistercian monastery in the British Isles. It has been described as a ‘historical document in stone’ – the purpose of every part being easily understood while touring the buildings.

This is a bonus. One of my biggest bugbears when visiting ancient ruins is the difficulty in identifying which parts served what purpose, even with a guide book. Rievaulx Abbey’s various parts are easily identifiable – but unless you're an expert in the field, or you simply want to amble and admire the view, you do need a guide book.

I won’t bore you with a detailed guided tour, but will pick out the highlights. The abbey is home to the earliest surviving Cistercian nave in Britain, dating from around 1140. In the 12th and 13th century it was reserved for the use of lay brothers – members of the monastic community who attended some services but spent most of their time in manual labour. This kind of monk was excused the intellectual duties of reading, learning and preaching – many were not even literate.

As you walk up the nave you can see pieces of the 13th century glazed tiled floor in place. It is amazing to think how long this has survived – the decorative patterns still clearly visible.

The square pillar bases are evidence of the plainness of early Cistercian architecture, in keeping with the monks’ austere lifestyle. It may be a lovely setting for a home, but I don’t think any of us living today would want to swap. Most other orders built their abbeys in or near towns. Cistercians chose remote parts of the countryside, partly to satisfy their need to work with their hands in the fields and through rearing sheep, and partly to keep out of the way of temptation.

At one time home to more than 140 monks and almost 500 lay brothers, the monastery is vast, including a treasury, infirmary, library, refectory, dormitory and warming house, in which fireplaces can be seen.

Fireplaces are also present in the kitchen, where you can see the serving hatch to the refectory next door. From the infirmary cloister you can walk to the reredorter, or latrine building, where a huge drain can be seen running through the ground floor to cleanse shafts leading from the latrines on the upper floor.

The ruins of the main abbey church are majestic, the giant columns casting great shadows across the grass. It must have been an incredible sight before its destruction following Henry Vlll’s dissolution of the monasteries in 1538. It’s terrible to think that it was still a vibrant community when it was dissolved.

Young children who just want to have fun can make the most of the abbey with games of hide and seek – there are plenty of nooks and crannies in which to crouch. Or they can go off and explore.

There’s a small museum containing finds made during site excavations, and an informative indoor exhibition, The Works Of God And Man, which explores the agriculture, industrial, spiritual and construction aspects of Rievaulx’s history through interactive displays. Family-friendly events and activities are held during school holidays.

Schoolchildren have helped to create a sensory garden full of scented herbs, among tile motifs based on medieval designs.

The abbey tea room is worth a visit, offering local fare including sandwiches with ingredients grown in the abbey grounds, homemade cakes, and delicious, freshly-baked scones with jam and cream.

If, like us, you take your own food, there’s a small picnic area with tables in the grounds, and plenty of grass for rugs.

The spot is a haven. As the monastery’s highly-regarded third abbot St Aelred said: ‘Everywhere peace, everywhere serenity, and a marvellous freedom from the tumult of the world.’ When you’ve had a look around, you can walk beside the river, from which a track leads up into the woods offering lovely views of the abbey.

And if you want to top off your day with a meal before heading home, there are great pubs and cafes in Helmsley, not to mention a great fish and chip shop.

FACTFILE:

  • Rievaulx Abbey is two miles from Helmsley off the B1257 to Stokesley,  North Yorkshire.
     
  • It is open daily until November 3. Adult entry is £6, children £3.60, concessions £5.40: National Heritage passholders free.
     
  • For more information ring (01439) 798228 or visit english-heritage.org.uk.