he seaside town is once again in the spotlight thanks to the new adaptation of Graham Greene’s classic novel, Brighton Rock, set in the Sixties – a time of clashes between mods, rockers and rival gangs – and starring Menston actor Sam Riley.

In real life, Brighton’s seedy underbelly depicted in Greene’s story has been replaced by a healthy vision of Bohemian countercultures, underground scenes and creative talent.

The growth of the Brighton Festival and Brighton Fringe have made the area a go-to destination for arts and culture.

And now artists, students and performance groups play happily together among the brightly-coloured beach huts, fairground rides, fish and chip shops and beach-front pubs, in a charming representation of modern, yet quintessentially British, life.

Regency terraces dominate the skyline and the festering slums and dark alleyways have been replaced with rabbit warrens of quirky cafes and independent boutiques.

The city’s grand Victorian legacy can be still seen in all its glory as you walk along Brighton Pier, past the ornate iron street furniture, and of course when entering the splendour of the famous Grand Hotel.

Blessed with a sea-view room and private balcony, come sunrise or sunset, I have the best seat in the house. Breakfasting each morning by the window and stepping outside to drink in the views of two piers, the view of the beach and sea stretching before me was priceless.

Brighton is a shoppers’ paradise. Whether you’re looking for new or vintage, cyber Goth or mod, bric-a-brac, gifts, souvenirs, health food or jewellery, it’s all in one compact area.

There are surprises around every corner in The Lanes, a network of quaint streets and twittens (narrow passageways) filled with high street brands, small boutiques, jewellery shops, cafes and coffee shops.

Brighton comes into its own at night. Every scene is represented, from electro-swing, hip-hop and indie dance, to classic house, rock, gay and straight. Thankfully the stag and hen parties gravitate towards one area, West Street, making them easy to avoid.

The smart clubs on the beach are an obvious choice for commercial clubbers, while curious types should seek out more clandestine parties in unlikely venues.

Inspired by the release of the new film, one morning I plump for a Brighton Rock walking tour, which takes in some of the significant venues and locations used in the 1947 original.

It’s fascinating to uncover the history of buildings which you would otherwise overlook. The pub where Greene is said to have written his novel, as well as the Grand Hotel and the cinema used for the premiere of the first film, feature along the tour.

Along with Quadrophenia, Wimbledon and Cassandra’s Dream, Brighton Rock is one of many films set in the city. Robert William Paul, the father of the British film industry, called the city ‘home’ and a section of the Hove Museum is dedicated to Brighton’s role in British film.

Rounding off my stay in style, I head to an entirely different kind of hotel for two final nights of seaside bliss.

Whether you prefer timeless elegance or statement styling, there’s accommodation to suit all tastes in this city. At the uber-cool Snooze guest house in the suburb of Kemptown, themed rooms feature carefully-sourced retro relics and manage to make each space a destination in its own right.

I do love to be beside the seaside and nowhere besides Brighton captures my heart in quite the same way.