Slow speed ahead

But if you’re not used to boating, the prospect of taking charge of a canal boat on holiday can be daunting.

Enter Lizzie-Jean, a splendid narrowboat belonging to David Fitch, who has launched Airedale Cruising, offering people hands-on experience of boating.

“Many people are anxious about canal holidays because the idea of taking on the responsibility of a boat is daunting,” says David. “I’ve seen people with hired boats get into trouble, particularly when they reach locks, because they don’t know what they’re doing. I’m offering the chance to have a go at steering, and learn about other aspects of canal boatmanship, on a skippered cruise. This introductory experience may give people confidence to hire a boat.

“It’s also an opportunity to experience canal travel on a furnished houseboat. People can bring picnic lunches, help themselves to drinks, and relax with home comforts.”

David had the 57ft narrowboat built four years ago, and designed and furnished it himself. Inside, it’s a lovely home-from-home, with pretty wood panelling. The cosy lounge has comfy chairs, a bookcase, TV and framed photographs; the fitted kitchen, or galley, has a cooker, sink and fridge; in the bedroom are pretty rag rugs made by David, which he sells, and in the bathroom I’m amazed to discover a bath!

“I did courses in woodwork and plumbing at Bradford College,” says David. “It took two years to fit the boat out. I’ve had boats since I was 15 and always wanted a houseboat. I love the freedom of the water; life goes by at a slower pace – you can’t rush anywhere at 4mph!”

David’s cruises run from Skipton to Gargrave, the most northerly part of the Leeds-Liverpool canal.

Canals are busiest this time of year and there are a couple cruising past as I climb onboard Lizzie-Jean. David leads me to the stern and starts up the boat. She’s powered by a 43-horsepower diesel engine and a propeller beneath our feet. David pushes the boat away from the bank, hops on board, then we’re off, cruising along the canal.

“Fancy a go?” he says, handing me the tiller, and suddenly I’m steering the boat! It feels strange ‘driving’ from the back at first and it takes a while to get used to the steering.

I’d imagined it was a case of just steering in a straight line, but of course there’s more to it than that. Whenever you feel the boat veering towards the left you have to pull the tiller to the left, then vice versa if it starts moving to the right. It feels odd at first – if a car was veering towards the left you’d automatically steer it to the right but with a narrowboat you have to steer the back end over, to move the rest of the boat outwards. Just when I think I’ve managed to get it running fairly evenly, it starts veering over to the side again.

“The wind is against us, it’s pushing the boat,” says David. “You find you get the hang of steering pretty quickly. It’s pretty calming, but you do have to concentrate. I used to have a sailing boat and the tiller was the same so when my wife and I went on a canal boat holiday I found steering wasn’t a problem. We fell in love with canal boats and our dream is to set off around the country – we have a remarkable canal network here – and overseas.”

Before long, I start to get the hang of it and it feels more relaxing. We have a lovely view of rolling hills and gambolling lambs as we make our way from Niffany Bridge towards Gargrave. I’ve just about managed to keep Lizzie-Jean on an even keel when I spot another narrowboat coming towards us. I have a nightmarish vision of steering right into it and nervously hand the tiller to David. He expertly steers past the other boat and we wave to the couple on board. It’s a friendly little world on the waterways.

We pass a swan curled up on her nest. Her mate glides along the water behind us, protectively. Further on, a gaggle of geese gawp at us from the bank. We approach a swing bridge, which someone on another boat has opened. “Hopefully, they’ll keep it open for us. It’s not exactly an unspoken rule, but we generally help each other out,” says David. “The boating community is very friendly. If you pass another boat people usually wave. You don’t get that travelling in a car!”

The bridge is held open and we wave as we glide past.

Operating canal locks can be a daunting prospect and may put some people off hiring a narrowboat, so David makes sure that on his cruises he involves his passengers in the process.

“When it comes to going up and down hills, canals use locks a bit like we use stairs,” he says, as we make our way through Gargrave Locks. “There are all sorts of new words to learn, like sluices and paddles, cill and windlass, and of course locks have gates and balance beams too.”

The first lock from Skipton to Gargrave is called Holme Bridge Lock, where the canal passes under the A65 to the Lakes. Lizzie-Jean is a 6ft 10ins wide boat, just wide enough for 7ft locks.

Because a huge amount of deep water is involved, locks can be dangerous places so David insists that all children under 13 travelling on his boat wear life-jackets. He gives instructions in advance about using the lock, because while the boat goes through the lock he steers it while the crew are up on the lockside doing the winding and pushing.

“It’s the one bit of canal working I like least,” he admits. “Locks are damp, slimy places, although the sun often shines on those who are up on the lockside enjoying the view and chatting to new canal-using friends.”

It helps if another boat going in the same direction is using the lock too as this keeps both boats steady inside the lock chamber while the water is filling or draining out, and both crews can work together to open the gates and turn the paddle mechanisms.

We’re lucky – another boat with an experienced crew is using the lock at the same time so everything goes smoothly. Soon we’re off again higher up the hillside on our way into Gargrave. Because of the need to preserve the water supply to the canal, we only go up one of the six Gargrave locks before David turns the boat and we return the way we came, this time going down through Holme Bridge Lock which is quicker and seems much simpler. Or perhaps I’m just getting good at it by now… David’s cruises usually go into Gargrave, a lovely Dales village with pubs, shops and a popular café doubling as an old-fashioned sweetshop.

Gliding along the canal back towards Skipton we reach a turning area, also known as a ‘winding hole’. David says it can be tricky turning a 57-ft boat, especially with the wind against you. He steers towards the bank and leaps off, then starts to pull her in with a rope. I jump off and help him pull then, once she’s in, we hop back onboard. Then David starts to manoeuvre the boat around – it’s like a three-point turn. He pulls the tiller to the left until she’s lying across the canal. I discover why it’s called a ‘winding hole’ – the wind is pushing against the boat, making it difficult to steer. But David turns her successfully and in no time we’re facing the opposite direction.

When we approach the swing bridge, he hands me a key and, after we’ve steered to the bank, I jump off and run across the bridge. I’m all fingers and thumbs unlocking the padlock, then I push the bridge out to let the boat through. Pulling it back and chaining it up is tricky, especially when it keeps swinging away from me. I end up on my backside. By the next bridge I’ve got the hang of it!

It was fun cruising along the canal, and I’d feel more confident handling a tiller – and the bridges – in future.

Sitting at the bow, water gently lapping against the side of the boat, I soak up the tranquility. Life on the waterways is appealing; spending all day in the open air then battening down the hatches and settling into the cosy living-area with a bottle of wine. Here’s to Lizzie-Jean!

* Airedale Cruising offers half-day and full-day skippered narrowboat cruises from Skipton for up to six adults and two children. Cruises are from £75 per half-day. For more information ring David Fitch on 07760 481821 or visit airedalecruising.info