Going loco with the North Yorkshire Moors Railway

A railwayman all his life, there isn’t much the nonagenarian doesn’t know about trains – and steam engines in particular.

This year, we finally managed to heed his advice and, one chilly Saturday morning, arrived at Pickering Station to catch the 9am service to Whitby.

The station itself takes you back in time, with its period kiosks, wooden luggage trolleys and vintage advertisements. Built in 1845 by the York & North Midland Railway, the building has been beautifully restored and is home to a visitor centre, a welcoming station cafe and a gift shop.

A crowd had already gathered on the platform, with children peering excitedly along the track.

After crossing the footbridge, we boarded our train, pulled by a diesel engine that was to take us across the moors to Grosmont, where we were to change to a steam-hauled engine.

The basic interior of our carriage, with its Formica tables and sliding windows reminded me of journeys I made as a child. I travel by train a lot, but it’s decades since I heard the clickety-clack of the wheels moving over the rails.

From setting off, the views were stunning, but the landscape wasn’t the first thing that captured our attention. We had gone only a short distance when we spotted the strangest thing – a large lop-eared rabbit hopping about on his own small island in the middle of a lake.

The train enters the North York Moors National Park at New Bridge. This section of the line is single track and the driver must carry a single line ‘staff’ or ‘ticket token’ to enter. Drivers and signalmen exchange pouches in order to deliver or receive this, ensuring that only one train uses this track at any one time.

Arriving at Levisham, the first stop, we could see passengers standing alongside the pretty flowerbeds waiting to board.

Twisting and turning, we travelled through woodland alongside Pickering Beck. On this section the line climbs on gradients as steep as 1-49, with the sides of Newton Dale becoming increasingly dramatic and steep.

Constant changes in the scenery, from forests carpeted with primroses to open moorland, to bog, and clusters of sandstone cottages, kept our eyes glued to the windows.

The NYMR trains have toilets and refreshment trolleys, so if you fancy, you can enjoy a cup of tea or glass of wine on your journey.

After passing Fen Bog on the way to Goathland – home of the TV series Heartbeat – we reached the highest point of the line at 532ft (150m) above sea level. The level of the bog rises in wet weather and the railway line adjusts as a result.

Goathland to Grosmont is a beautiful stretch, following the path of Eller Beck, with gushing rapids and pretty waterfalls.

Changing trains at Grosmont, a 1950s-style station that is home to the engine sheds where the locos receive some TLC, we switched to a plusher carriage with high-backed seats in a wooden interior. Our train was pulled by locomotive 75029, ‘Green Knight’, built in Swindon in 1954.

My daughters were amazed by the amount of steam it threw out, and while on the platform, we were all reminded of that emotive scene in The Railway Children when their father returns home.

Travelling by steam train feels special. If, for a moment you forget you’re being pulled by one of these magnificent locos, you’re reminded by those you pass along the route. Adults hurriedly whip out cameras and take pictures, while children smile and wave.

Watching other passengers, we realised that to capture our own train on film, we had to lean out of the window on bends. Not too far out, of course, although some people who seemed to be filming the entire journey, had half their torso outside.

As the line eases out of Grosmont, it joins the Network Rail Esk Valley line to the coast.

It seems hard to believe that this line was closed under the Beeching cuts of 1963 and subsequently abandoned. It was saved thanks to the efforts of the NYMR preservation Society who raised funds and worked tirelessly to keep it going. It opened to the public in 1973.

Not far from Whitby, we crossed the River Esk, where we spotted a heron, his distinctive shape silhouetted against the dark water. Then on and under the mighty Larpool Viaduct and into town.

On the platform, I showed my daughters a simple stone memorial set in a wall inscribed ‘Morte D’Arthur 8.8.75’, in memory of Arthur, a much-loved station cat.

A walk up the 199 steps, a stroll along the pier, followed by a lovely lunch at the Seaman’s Mission, and we were back on the train for the return trip. We were thrilled to discover it was steam all the way.

This time, our locomotive was the London Midland and Scottish (LMS) 44971, built in Crewe in 1942.

The train was busier on the return trip, as walkers clutching rucksacks and flasks caught the service as a nice way of rounding off their day.

Back in Pickering, I chatted to station master Colin Moran, who travels from his home near the Humber Bridge to work as a volunteer on the line, and station foreman Alan Wilson, who lives locally. Both love being part of the 400-strong army of volunteers who help to maintain and run the attraction.

“The best part is when you chat to people who have had a great day out – it makes it all worthwhile,” says Alan.

“It is lovely watching people’s eyes light up,” adds Colin.

Returning to the NYMR car park, we saw the modern carriage shed built in 2008 and opened by train enthusiast and music producer Pete Waterman. This allows volunteers more space to repair and restore carriages.

Anyone wishing for an extra special treat can enjoy lunch, afternoon tea or evening meal in a smart dining car.

After a quick walk to see the famous 15th century wall paintings in Pickering Church, we were on our way home to tell Clifford all about it.