It's late Spring and the strengthening sun warms the blood and naturally turns a young man's thoughts towards ros wine.

Well, perhaps not, but for the sake of this article let's pretend.

Not so many years ago you had the choice of two styles of ros: dismal, boring dry versions, mainly from the South of France, which the French had somehow persuaded us were good (based largely on the afterglow of summer holidays in Provence) and insipid sweet wines, such as those from Anjou.

Also in this category was the wine which many of us cut our teeth on, Mateus Rose. Admitting to drinking it now is like confessing to a liking for Abba, but is much more justifiably shameful.

In recent years the situation has changed completely.

The quality has improved so much, largely though the use of classy grape varieties and modern wine making techniques, that it would take a rare talent consistently to pick out poor ones.

If you tend to home in on wines labelled White Zinfandel it's possible that you have the talent.

This week and next I will be reviewing a range of the ross which are available to enhance our enjoyment of those warm, sunny days which we hope to enjoy in the coming months.

From New Zealand comes an unusual blend of Pinotage (very rarely found outside of South Africa) and Cabernet Sauvignon. Montana East Coast Ros 2004, from Tesco, £5.99, has a lively scent of red fruits and a rich mouthfeel, full flavoured and slightly sweet.

This provides the kind of enjoyable, fun drinking that suits the summer.

Stormhoek Select Ros really is from South Africa and demonstrates the improvement in winemaking that has taken place there.

Whereas the Montana is a wine for accompanying sunshine, this one is less frivolous, dry and goes well with food, which brings out its clean, fresh fruit flavours, available from Majestic, £5.85 or £4.97 if buying any 2 rose.

Syrah is a grape which has become fashionable in California, and Marks & Spencer's Woodhaven Ros shows why.

It has a very appealingly fragrant bouquet of raspberries plus a hint of creamy blackcurrant.

On the palate the up-front juicy fruit is a blend of raspberries, strawberries and blackcurrant, all wrapped up in a very enjoyable finish for £4.99.

A half-price wine offer at the Retro Restaurant in Bradford brought Gran Feudo Ros to my attention.

It is from Navarra in northern Spain and made from the Garnacha grape. It has a lively scent and a flavour of raspberries and redcurrants.

Its fresh, tangy acidity and dry finish make it a good accompaniment for white meat dishes, available from Oddbins, £5.59.