Last week I was moved by the longer, brighter days to thoughts of rose wine.

Obviously the weather has been having the same effect on the wine people at Morrisons because on Monday they start a ros promotion, with money off all the pinks they sell.

One of the notable features of ross in recent times is the variety of styles produced from a whole range of different grapes. The Morrisons offers include that old warhorse Mateus Ros (a marketer's creation with little to do with the traditional wines of Portugal). Nostalgia will cost 70p less at £3.29 a bottle. But there are also wines from California, Spain, Italy, South Africa, Argentina and Australia.

Another common feature is that it's often hard to know you are drinking ros from the colour - many of them are darker than the reds of cooler regions such as Alsace. The ros character is embodied in the lack of tannins resulting from the brief skin contact.

It's generally a good idea to drink ros when it's young and fresh - ie choose the latest vintage. A good example is the Sicilian Cabernet Sauvignon from Inycon, a very reliable producer. The 2003 vintage (£4.99 down to £3.69) is now quite dull despite being made from a characterful grape. Go for 2004 if you see it.

Just to show that general principles can't be relied upon, the best ros on offer, the Californian Fetzer Valley Oaks Syrah, is as delicious in its 2003 as its 2004 manifestation. It has a lovely depth of flavour, with lush, juicy fruit, combined with a whopping £1.50 discount to make it £4.49. Irresistible!

Terramar Rosado from Tarragona in northern Spain is very different in style. It has a fragrant strawberry character but is lighter and drier - a wine to accompany light dishes rather than drink by itself (£4.49 down to £3.49).

Woolpunda Cabernet Ros 2004, on the other hand, is a very frivolous Australian red of a bright ruby colour.

Commercial New World reds are sometimes criticised as being like alcoholic Ribena. Well this one definitely is: sweet and very fruity - and lots of fun (£4.69 down to £3.69).

For another change in style go to Marks & Spencer. Last week I enthused about their delicious Californian Woodhaven Shiraz (£4.99). One of their other new ross contains the mystifyingly trendy grape Pinot Grigio, combined with another widely-planted variety from northern Italy, the black Rondinella.

Podere la Prendina 2004 is a very delicately coloured salmon pink and gently scented. On the palate it is equally delicate, light and juicy, with a fresh acidity which has no sharpness. Serve chilled in bright sunlight (£5.99). Salute!