You were probably as surprised as I was that President Chirac didn't respond more warmly to Tony Blair's suggestion that the EU should reform its system of agricultural subsidies rather than focus on our rebate.

The fact is that Chirac is already getting a lot of grief from French wine producers as a result of the big decline in wine consumption at home and in exports to other countries.

It tends to be wine at the basic level which is particularly hard-hit, the kind of thing that people back from holiday enthuse about ("We found a terrific local wine for a pound a gallon").

The prestige stuff tends to be still selling at infuriating prices. Top Burgundies go for up to several hundred pounds a bottle, but fortunately there are still some attractive wines from that area which are affordable.

The Chardonnays from Macon are at the bottom of the pecking order of white Burgundies and are often disappointing, but Sainsbury's Classic Selection Macon Villages 2003 (£5.99) reflects the warm vintage very enjoyably with its sweet attack, giving way to a long citrussy aftertaste - soak it up while soaking up the sunshine or with light meat. The maker is George Duboeuf, the King of Beaujolais.

Blason de Bourgogne Saint-Veran 2003 embodies the sunshine more exuberantly with its wonderful fleshy fruit flavours: pineapple enlivened by a touch of spice and a fresh, tangy acidity.

It's outstanding value at the offer price of £5.99 at Tesco (down from £7.99) until July 9.

Chablis is such a famous name in wine that it was made by many countries around the world, until the EUput a stop to it.

The genuine Chablis is the north-western outpost of Burgundy. It covers quite a small area and there is a hierarchy of sites based on soil and position. The humblest level is Petit Chablis, then Chablis, Premier Cru and Grand Cru.

Premier cru wines from a famous French region might be expected to be fairly pricey, but there are a couple of very good examples available which won't cause your wallet to squeal too much.

Labour-Roi 2003 at Tesco is an unusually deep, golden colour. It has the distinctive minerality which is associated with Chablis, and a nice, juicy lightness of touch which leads to a long lemony finish.

It's reduced from £12.99 to £9.99.

Sainsbury's offering is from the same vintage. Made by Jean-Marc Brocard, it is very distinct from Tesco's, with a slightly oaty nose which also is accompanied by fruit in the mouth to make deep flavours on the middle palate.

The clean finish again has the lovely ethereal lightness of touch (£10.99)