nybody with memories of youthful nights spent partying in resorts like Magaluf and Palma Nova might be surprised to find that Majorca has undergone a dramatic change of image in recent years.

This wild-child island in the Balearics has grown into a sedate maiden aunt, symbolised by the elegant streets and squares of its capital, Palma, so easy to reach for an off-peak break with budget flights from numerous UK airports.

The weather alone, so much brighter and milder than England, can send spirits soaring in winter.

The Spanish city is also small and compact enough to explore on foot or by bike. Its old walls remain in place, topped by the occasional windmill, and the splendid historic quarter, from its imposing Gothic cathedral to Arab baths, art museums and Gaudi-inspired buildings, will keep any culture vulture interested.

If glamour and sophistication are more your thing, wander up the Passeig del Born – Palma’s answer to Barcelona’s Las Ramblas – where designer shops have muscled their way in, or gaze in awe at the yachts moored in the port as you enjoy lunch in a waterfront restaurant.

Perhaps Palma’s shops are so good because cruise ships arrive so frequently. All the top names, including Zara and Mango, are found in the retail-drome of Porto Pi Centro, and there’s a great choice of leather goods and other fashionwear in Avinguda Jamme III.

All these shops were within easy walking distance of my hotel, an oasis in the heart of the city, a few minutes’ walk from the cathedral where mighty chunks of Gothic stone make up the splendid flying buttresses which are such an impressive sight in the taxi from the airport.

The Hotel Dalt Murada is a former 16th-century manor house, one of the Reis de Mallorca hotel group – a 32-strong association of independently-owned hotels, ranging from city boutique hotels to farm complexes and rural manor houses.

Restored nearly six years ago, the Dalt Murada has been in the owner’s family for several generations. It definitely has its own ‘wow factor’. Boasting three double rooms and five suites decorated with antique Majorcan furniture and art, it oozes history and culture.

Our penthouse suite was no exception. A private terrace overlooking the cathedral often tempted us from the cool, airy lounge area, while the bedroom was almost filled with an imposing four-poster bed.

The piece de resistance was a double spa bath in the bathroom – perfect for enjoying a glass of cava during a break from sightseeing.

Bike tours are big in Palma, with people enjoying them as an easy way to see the sights. But it’s just as easy to arm yourself with a map for a stroll around the myriad streets and alleys, enjoying the sunshine as you go.

The cathedral area is beautifully kept, and it’s well worth going inside to see the sheer size of the building and its cloisters. You are never lost for a museum to visit in Palma – they seem to fill every corner. And if you fancy venturing further afield for some culture, then Bellver Castle just outside the city is easily reached by bus.

With children in tow, you might be tempted by one of the world’s most impressive aquariums.

Just outside the capital, Palma Aquarium aims to recreate ocean habitats and eco-systems, with more than 8,000 specimens from hundreds of species, including hammerhead sharks, rays, turtles and butterfly fish.

The £45 million development boasts an array of indoor and outdoor pools and landscaped gardens.

For a change of pace, we made a five-mile journey out of Palma to Illetas, where the beautiful Bon Sol Resort and Spa, another member of the Reis de Mallorca group, enjoys a dominating position on the hillside above Palma Bay.

Built as a private house by the Xamena family more than 50 years ago, the hotel is now run by the owner’s son Martin and his English wife Lorraine and their children, who will eventually take over from them.

Lifts whisk you down from the main reception to beautiful suites looking over the picture-postcard vision of the bay. The complex, scattered among well-tended gardens, offers three swimming pools, tennis courts, mini-golf, a gym and even indoor games.

Meals are part of this experience, with breakfast offered either in the winter garden conservatory or on the beachfront veranda restaurant. Dinner can be taken in the medieval-style restaurant, an antiquated but quirky surrounding, or again on the beachfront – the perfect romantic venue. After either of these meals, you might like to relax with drinks and entertainment in the hotel’s bar and terrace.

But if relaxing on a sun terrace, bathing in a spa bath or enjoying a cocktail is not enough relaxation for you, then try the Nirvana Spa.

A morning passes by all too quickly in the Moorish-inspired relaxation lounge where guests choose between saunas, steam rooms, jet showers, jacuzzi and plunge pool, and follow up with a range of treatments including the latest techniques and holistic therapies.

For men or women, pampering experiences range from honey nourishing masks to the specialist ‘Golfer’s Treatment’, which is said to ease muscle tension.

The Bon Sol is the epitome of this beautiful island. Picturesque, relaxed and classy, it is little wonder it boasts guests who return year after year. One man has been a regular visitor for 40 years.

Forget the old cliches of Majorca – the Brit-haven of parties and cheap sunshine. Behind this unfair reputation, the island can offer class, history and luxury in abundance.

Factfile

Natasha stayed at the Hotel Dalt Murada, Palma, with B&B doubles starting at 159 euros (£145), and at Hotel Bon Sol Resort & Spa in Illetas, five miles from Palma (hotelbonsol.es), with prices from 149 euros (£136). Bon Sol has a Christmas programme from December 24 to January 1.

Both family-run, four-star hotels are among 28 members of the Reis de Mallorca association (0034 871949767 and reisdemallorca.com). Specific hotel information is available on daltmurada.com and hotelbonsol.es.

Specialist operator Classic Collection Holidays offers three nights’ half-board at Hotel Bon Sol from £353 (two sharing), including flights, private transfers. Reservations: 0800 0087288 and classic-collection.co.uk.

A number of airlines fly to Palma from Leeds Bradford Airport (leedsbradfordairport.co.uk)