Log fires, cosy corners, and leather sofas are key ingredients for an autumnal evening at a country pub.

With its roaring fires, stone floors, Paisley-print bucket seats, solid oak dining tables, brassware and mirrors, set against walls in rich burgundy and deep green, the White Hart in Pool-in-Wharfedale is the perfect retreat when there’s a nip in the air.

There’s also its hearty, flavoursome food. This is simple, yet imaginative, with pub classics including steak and ale pie and beer-battered fish and chips, and a good helping of Mediterranean fare featuring pasta dishes and pizzas.

Head chef is Darren Danby, who oversees a seven-strong team dedicated to creating fine fare. “It is good British food with a Mediterranean twist, and some nice exotic flavours too,” he says, reeling off an appetising list of mains including grilled swordfish, mango, papaya, spring onion and baby potatoes; crispy duck, salad, mouli and plum sauce; roasted butternut squash, goats’ cheese, spinach lasagne and tomato fondue; and stone-baked pizzas in combinations ranging from tomato, mozzarella, oregano and basil to piccante, pepperoni, chorizo and tomato.

“Our pizzas are really popular. We roll our own dough, the whole works,” he says, “So are gourmet burgers – with tomato, garlic, onion and Cajun seasoning.” He changes the menu every three months and the specials daily.

Darren’s natural talent for cooking manifested itself in his first job after leaving school – working, Auf Weidersehen Pet-style, on building sites across Europe.

“I was a labourer and when we worked away we all lived in a hut on site. The other lads cottoned on to the fact that I could cook and they would all chip in towards ingredients. I’d go shopping and create dishes from all sorts of things without looking at recipes.”

His girlfriend at the time, Hannah – now his wife – encouraged him to take the plunge and break into catering. “I walked into the Imperial Hotel in Harrogate and said I wanted to train to become a chef.”

He got his wish, learned the ropes, and went on to work at a variety of top eateries across Yorkshire including Ye Olde Punch Bowl at Marton-cum-Grafton and the Boar’s Head Hotel in Ripley.

The past two years have seen him firmly establish himself at the White Hart. “I enjoy chatting to customers,” he says. “I have two jackets, one for the kitchen and one which I slip on when I get chance to pop out to chat to diners.

“We have many repeat bookings – it is always satisfying when people come back – it is a big vote of confidence in us.”

Historically, the White Hart, which dates back to the 17th century, acted as a clubhouse for a variety of teams and societies ranging from angling to cricket. Some still meet there. “Many of our customers live in the village and say they love the atmosphere,” says general manager Richard Marsay. “A local history group comes in and talks about the village, focusing on the pub.”

The York stone building was extensively revamped three years ago and again refurbished, to a lesser degree, in spring this year.

  • The White Hart, Main Street, Pool-in-Wharfedale, LS21 1LH. Tel. (0113) 203 7862