We had a simple rule for our days of exploring the tranquil lanes and villages of Herefordshire: whenever the flesh weakens, sample the local food and drink.

In a region famous for cider, strawberries, cheeses, jams and oodles more, you are never far from something scrumptious.

Following a gentle curve of the River Wye into Ross-on-Wye, we stopped for an al fresco lunch in the Courtyard of The Wilton Court Hotel, a sturdy 16th-century building in red sandstone on a stretch of the water where swans run supercilious eyes over passing cyclists.

So it was organic smoked salmon and quail’s egg for me, crab tian for my wife, with luscious local ice-creams and a local ale, Butty Bach, to wash it down.

Next day, it was the old town of Ledbury and the famous open marketplace with Tudor beams resting on oak columns.

Lunch here was scrumptious too – at Ceci Paolo, the celebrated deli in the main street: Welsh pate for my wife, finest buffalo mozzarella for me, served ‘basil drizzled’ with toasted sourdough bread.

Yet when we recall days in this ‘Heart of England’ foodie heaven, our gold award still goes to Gary Wheeler, a top chef in Hereford before joining Holme Lacy House, the country-house hotel outside the town which proved an ideal base for our stay.

When he emerged from his kitchen one night, after dishing up a particularly delectable sirloin of Herefordshire beef with creamed broad beans and pancetta with truffle tortellini, he smiled politely and thanked us for turning up. Not an expletive deleted in sight!

Each night, as we looked from Holme Lacy’s elegant, oak-panelled Orchard Restaurant across a landscape reminiscent of Normandy, Gary left us marvelling at his skills. No wonder he’s just bagged a two-rosette rating from the AA.

When Warner’s Leisure Hotels started in the 1990s, fine buildings tended to set the style rather than fine food.

Today, Warner has 13 rather special locations dotted around the UK. When you dodge scampering squirrels in the curving drive of Grade I-listed Holme Lacy House, set in 20 acres of formal gardens and parkland, the trumpets of Brideshead Revisited might be ringing in your ears.

The splendid carving on the main facade is “99.6 per cent certain” to be the work of the great Grinling Gibbons, our guide Eric Darnell told us in his fascinating tour of the house.

Apparently, celebrated architectural historian Sir Nikolaus Pevsner rated the ceilings in Holme Lacy House public rooms as the best he found outside Royal palaces. Now guests happily sit beneath them quaffing a bar snack from the Terrace Restaurant.

This is Middle England either taking a well-earned break from work, or putting its feet up in retirement, in three-night weekend breaks and four nights midweek, with a daily rate for those who stay longer.

Business was booming long before anybody heard of ‘staycation’, although you rarely feel crowded in these grand old mansions.

With guests at least 16 years old, and mostly in the 45-plus bracket, there was no rush to use the sporting facilities dotted around the Holme Lacy grounds. And free telephone calls permitted from your room shows what an orderly lot the guests must be.

The other big attraction at Warner’s Historic Hotels is a cruise-style daily programme of things to do and see.

Options include wine tasting, general knowledge quizzes, social dancing, salsa classes, tap dancing for beginners and murder mysteries to solve, with regular buses into Hereford for those who don’t want the hassle of having to park.

Every night after dinner, there’s a fast-moving show with a small team of singers and dancers reworking hits from popular musicals. I was amazed how such a small troupe could fill such a big stage.

Another cruise idea is escorted excursions, or “Experiences”, as Warner calls them. Our outing to Weston’s Cider Mill in nearby Much Marcle ended with such an exhaustive range of tastings that we had to lie down afterwards.

Most mornings at Holme Lacy House, I took an early swim in the indoor pool – joined mostly by local residents – and then a bracing walk around the lake to relish the silence and dazzling sunlight of early morning.

Serious walkers, some well-equipped and carrying poles, seemed to disappear for most of the day. But any archery fans took it easy: during my days at Holme Lacy, I never saw a single arrow unleashed in anger.

We were amazed by the beauty of the Herefordshire landscape, with fir-covered hillsides merging into the Malverns and the Black Mountains, and the savoured delights of slowly exploring a county which has thus far managed to avoid a motorway.

When I return, I shall make a point of starting with an empty stomach.

Factfile

Natasha Rush stayed at the Warner Leisure Hotels’ Holme Lacey House, which offers three-night, half-board breaks from £227 and four nights from £269, including English/continental breakfasts, leisure facilities, daytime activities, three-course dinners and live entertainment every night. Signature Room supplement is £37 per room per night, including meals in The Bistro restaurant. Historic Room supplements (£60-£120 per room per night) give guests a choice of all three restaurants each night. Guests pay a £12.50 supplement to use The Orchard, subject to availability. Warner Leisure Reservations: 0800 1388399 and online at warnerleisurehotels.co.uk. For Herefordshire Food Festival at Hereford Racecourse from October 24 to 25, adult tickets cost £5, under-14s £1.50. Group bookings: (01432) 260621 or visit herefordshirefoodfestival.com. Destination information: (01432) 260621 and visitherefordshire. co.uk.