Review

The Old Mill, Brighouse: A Sunday Roast amid character and comfort

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Nestled on the banks of the River Calder, just two miles from Brighouse, The Old Mill blends rustic charm with modern comfort.

Following a six-figure refurbishment earlier this year, this Chef & Brewer pub has retained its old-world character – think exposed wooden beams and a cosy interior – while adding subtle touches that feel sympathetic to its heritage.

On our visit, festive decorations were already in place, understated and tasteful, adding to the warm atmosphere.

The pub’s reputation for hearty Sunday lunches is well-earned. In summer months, visitors can make use of a peaceful beer garden overlooking the river and, inside, the ambience strikes a balance between traditional and contemporary.

Real ales are hand-pulled at the bar, and my pint of Greene King’s Fireside Winter Ale – a full-bodied ruby beer – was served in excellent condition, holding its head well.

Our party of four ordered from the Sunday Roasts section of the menu. I opted for the Trio of Roasts, a generous plate featuring beef rump, pork loin with crackling, and turkey breast accompanied by a pig-in-blanket.

The flavour and portion size were impressive, though the meats could have been hotter; they were just about warm enough to enjoy. The roast potatoes were a triumph – crispy outside, fluffy inside – and the gravy was rich and thick, avoiding the watery disappointment that can spoil a good Sunday lunch. Yorkshire puddings were another standout: giant, crisp and full of flavour.

One dining companion had set their heart on the seven-hour slow-cooked rib of beef, served on the bone, but was disappointed to learn it had sold out. Staff explained that the dish is extremely popular and advised arriving by mid-afternoon to secure it – a useful tip for future visits.

The food arrived plated rather than served family-style, and while presentation was neat, separate dishes for vegetables and a gravy boat would have elevated the experience.

Our junior diner enjoyed a rump steak from the children’s menu, which was well-received.

By the time Sunday evening arrived, the pub was pleasantly busy without being overcrowded. This created a relaxed atmosphere in which we could sit back, take our time and enjoy the experience without any sensation that somebody else might quite like to have our table.

Staff were attentive and were clearly passionate about delivering a good experience for customers.

Bookings for Christmas are reportedly strong, and given the quality of the food and setting, it’s easy to see why. One caveat: the car park operates under a private camera system, requiring guests to enter their registration on arrival to avoid hefty fines – a detail worth noting.

In terms of prices, my pint of Fireside Winter Ale came in at £5.20, a regular lemonade at £3.80, the Trio of Roasts was £18.50, and a kid's rump steak £7. When available, the seven-hour Slow-Cooked Rib of Beef will set you back £19.50.

All roasts come with crispy garlic & rosemary duck fat roast potatoes, roasted root vegetables, seasonal greens, Yorkshire pudding, sausage meat stuffing and gravy, but you'll pay extra if you want to add such delights as cauliflower cheese (£3) or honey and mustard chipolatas (£4).

In conclusion, The Old Mill delivers on its promise of traditional charm and hearty fare. The flavoursome food and overall atmosphere make this a solid choice for a Sunday lunch. Pair it with a well-kept pint of real ale, and you’ve got the makings of a satisfying weekend tradition.

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