BACK in 1844, visitors flocked to the country’s first hydropathic hotel to take the waters.

Like other spa towns, Ilkley made a name for itself for its waters, thought by the Victorians to invigorate both body and mind.

That pioneering hotel, which drew visitors from across the country, stood on a site directly across from the Cow and Calf Rocks, the landmark rock formation on Ilkley Moor.

Today, that spot is taken by The Cow & Calf pub. As in days gone by, visitors still come to take liquid refreshment and enjoy the views.

With its well-stocked bar and menu bursting with hearty fare, the country pub and restaurant - part of the Vintage Inn stable - has never been busier. “We recently had our busiest week ever - it was even busier than in 2018 when the Tour de Yorkshire finish line was bang outside the pub,” said shift supervisor Emily Minton.

After the past year of disruption staff at the Hangingstone Road hostelry are relishing the activity. “We are all thrilled to be so busy,” Emily added.

In common with pubs across the country when The Cow & Calf reopened in April guests were outside.

“We have a patio at the front and a beer garden area as well, and it was great while the sun shone, but it was very weather-dependent,” said Emily, who has worked at the moorland inn for 11 years. “When it is windy, with driving rain it can feel like a different country up here. Some brave people came wrapped up in fleeces.”

Now customers can book in advance to sit inside. “If it is sunny and they change their minds they can sit outside,” said Emily. “People who have not booked can sit in the bottom beer garden.”

There’s an old Victorian well in the grounds, harking back to the town's spa days.

Covid restrictions have seen the introduction of an app which people can use to order and pay for food and drink from their table. “This has made a big difference, it minimises contact between staff and guests. We can guide people as to how to do it,” said Emily. “Apps are definitely a thing of the future.”

Alternatively, guests can still order from a staff member in the patio area, she added. “Inside we offer table service.”

There’s a Monday to Saturday menu, and a special Sunday menu which includes a selection of hearty roasts served with seasonal vegetables, beef dripping, roast potatoes, Yorkshire puddings “and as much gravy as you like.”

Recently, a visitor revealed how he had been a chef at the property 70 years ago, when it was a boarding house. “He used to live upstairs with his family,” said Emily.

The pub is a popular destination for ramblers, many having walked across Rombalds Moor from the Aire Valley. Legend has it that the moor is named after a giant Rombald, who is thought to have fled across it to escape his angry wife. He is said to have stepped on rocks and spilt them, leaving a prominent formation featuring a large and a small rock, now known as the Cow and Calf.

In days gone by the stone building operated a disco in the cellar. "People used to walk up from Ilkley," said Emily.

As well as refreshments, the inn offers 14 characterful single, double, and twin bed and breakfast rooms. These are part of the Innkeepers Lodge hotel chain.

“We get bookings from across the country, including quite a lot of people from London up here on business.”

Staff at The Cow & Calf are looking forward to the day when things will be back to normal. “We are excited about that, whenever it will be,” said Emily.

*The Cow & Calf, Hangingstone Road, Ilkley, West Yorkshire, LS29 8BT

Visit: vintageinn.co.uk/restaurants/yorkshire/thecowandcalfilkley; T: 01943 607335