Cabbage has had a bad press historically - probably the result of too many mushy school dinners. But thanks to the current British obsession with cooking, cabbage is back in fashion.

And so it should be. Cabbage is low in calories but high in fibre and vitamins. It's not difficult to grow and it's versatile in the kitchen. It can be baked, stir-fried, stuffed, pickled, made into soup and casseroles, chopped raw for chunky coleslaw, shredded for salads and, of course, good old boiled cabbage.

The Germans braise red cabbage with butter, onions and sliced apples to make apfelrotkohl. And of course they pickle the white stuff for sauerkraut.

Chinese varieties offer a new taste for an established vegetable. And, as an unusual sideline, cool, raw cabbage leaves are just the thing to soothe sore, breast-feeding new mums.

The shops offer a good choice - savoys, reds, Chinese. But it's cheaper and more satisfying to grow your own.

Plant now and in just a few months you will be enjoying fresh, crunchy hearts.

Cabbages fall largely into three major groups - spring, summer or winter - but the season refers to the time of harvesting rather than planting.

You can, if you're prepared to work at it, have fresh heads all year round but that is if you have lots of land, plenty of time to sow and transplant, and have a household that loves cabbage week in, week out.

Spring cabbages are planted from September to October to provide tender spring greens early in the season and more mature heads later.

They are usually smaller than summer cabbages and are conical in shape.

One of the most popular varieties is April, which is conical with a few more widely spread outer leaves. It is very reliable and it is ready early - often from the end of February.

Pixie, as the name suggests, is small and ideal for beds where space is at a premium. And, if you want a large-headed spring cabbage, try First Early Market 218.

It is dark green and again, conical.

Cabbages need well prepared soil that is neutral (a pH of 7), and plenty of sunshine. The ground should have been dug over several months before planting. Add some organic matter but well before planting time.

Seedlings are ready to transplant when they have 5-6 leaves. Water the ground the day before planting. Plant them in rows at least 60cm (2ft) apart and 'puddle in' ie. water thoroughly.

Chinese cabbages are prone to bolt - seed prematurely - so don't transplant and water regularly in dry conditions.

Protect them from hungry birds - pigeons have a penchant for them - and root fly with fleece. Keep on top of weeds with a Dutch hoe until the plants are big enough to suppress them naturally.

You will need to water regularly if the weather is dry and apply a liquid feed as the plants mature.

If you're worried about club root you can dip the roots of your seedlings in thiophanate-methyl before planting.

As autumn progresses and the temperatures drop, earth up the stems. You may also need to firm down where necessary in winter to secure plants loosened by wind or frost.

Harvest the young plants in March as spring greens and leave the remaining cabbages to fatten up until April/May.

They are ready when the hearts are firm to touch but can stay in situ for several more weeks.

Once you've harvested your crop, don't grow cabbage in the same place for another three years.

Don't forget that cabbages can be sealed in food wrap and stored in the fridge for up to a week. Chinese cabbage will last even longer.

You can also shred fresh heads for freezing. Some people suggest blanching for one minute first.

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