River Nidd

The other day, strolling alongside a trout stream just outside the exquisite North Yorkshire village of Thornton-le-Dale, we watched a cluster of lambs at play on the far bank - scampering around the corner of a field in pursuit of each other while their mothers concentrated on grazing, ducking beneath the wire fence on the edge of the stream into the adjacent wood, taking it in turns to play "King of the Castle" on the stump of a tree.

When they were in the woodland one lamb which hadn't figured out how to get past the fence ran up and down the perimeter, bleating loudly, then ran back to its mother to seek guidance which wasn't forthcoming. Eventually it made it and joined the gang - a bit on the fringe at first, but soon being accepted enough to take its turn on the tree stump.

Contrast that with the scene in a field on the bank of the River Nidd near Harrogate. There, the sheep grazed with their twin lambs staying close by, either strolling about or sitting in the spring sunshine. There was no interaction between the youngsters. Why the difference? Such harmless speculation can occupy the mind when you walk in the countryside.

Mind you, there was plenty of other stuff to catch the eye (and ear) on a sunny morning saunter along the Nidd Gorge, which is lovingly managed by the Woodland Trust.

We'd done part of this walk a few years ago, but starting from Knaresborough and at a different season. Springtime proved to be better. The deciduous woodland alongside the Nidd was still just bursting into leaf and lots of light was getting through to the carpet of bluebells, wood anemones, wild garlic and marsh marigolds. Birds were singing everywhere and occasionally a fish rose on the stiller stretches of the river.

What turned out to be a delightful outing had begun in a small car park on a disused railway line at Bilton, in the north-west corner of Harrogate.

First leg of the journey was along the trackbed itself, leaving the houses behind and heading past playing fields into the open countryside to arrive at the blocked-off start of the Nidd Viaduct, which once carried the Harrogate gasworks railway across the river gliding past below in its deep gorge.

After admiring the stonework and craftsmanship of the arches visible between the trunks of the tall trees, we set off upstream on a path which soon descended to the river bank and from then on seldom left it.

It meandered along, crossing footbridges, climbing above the water from time to time then dropping down to it again.

Much of the trip was along sturdy boardwalks, a relatively recent and invaluable improvement which has come about since we last followed this route and got our boots very muddy. No mud on this occasion, though. In mid-April the ground was dry and hard.

The mood of the river varied. Sometimes it was a slow-moving mirror, perfectly reflecting the trees on the far bank. Then it tumbled over the sun-sparkling shallows for a while before returning to tranquillity. The path passed sandy beaches and wound through green pastures before joining the wood again. Birds sang and twittered. An early, solitary Orange Tip butterfly drifted past, probably looking for a mate. Exposed tree roots provided useful footsteps on the uphill climbs.

We passed a weir, and later a sturdy wooden footbridge before resting for a while on a bench in a shady glade. And then we began our steep climb away from the river, up through the trees on a path which eventually levelled out and deposited us in Bilton Lane - part of a cycle route alternatively known the Beryl Burton Way after the local cycling world champion.

From here we strolled back a mile or so towards the start, past attractive bungalows and farms, buying some free-range eggs at one of them and passing a mobile-home site and the inviting (but not-yet-open) Gardeners' pub to arrive back at the car park.

It had been a four-star walk - one to be marked down for a revisit at some future date.

Step by Step

1. From car park, cross road to information board and go through gate stile to walk along railway line. Arriving at viaduct, with Nidd Gorge below, turn right and walk on path above trees, with field to right.
2. At far corner, take path signed to Bilton Beck and Rudding Bottom down through wood to eventually join riverbank footpath. Cross Bilton Beck via wooden footbridge and keep ahead through the woodland to pass a weir and arrive shortly (after uphill stretch) at footpath sign marked "Milners Fork". Ignore path to right from here (unless you want a quick return to start).
3. Keep ahead for a few yards to a fork. Whichever path you take, you will soon find yourself on the river bank again. Continue along, through grassy area and past footbridge to bench.
4. Take climbing path past another couple of benches, ignoring sign halfway up hill pointing to right. Continue along path as it levels out and stay with it. Reaching metal gate on right, go left with path to arrive at T-junction with Bilton Lane.
5. Go right here to return eventually to start, passing houses, farms, caravan site and Gardener's pub along the way.

Fact File

• Start: Car park off Bilton Lane, Harrogate

• Time for 4-mile walk: Two hours

• Going: Easy, apart from a couple of uphill pulls

• Map: OS Pathfinder 663 or Explorer 297.

• Getting there: Drive from Bradford into Harrogate and continue to traffic lights at bottom of hill. Turn right, driving along past Conference Centre and following road to arrive at traffic lights at T-junction. Go left here, pass first set of lights and at second set go right into Bilton Lane to drive through estate and arrive at far end at car park on right, on disused railway line. A rather longer public transport alternative is to take a train to Knaresborough, walk down to the river and take the riverside footpath across the road from the entrance to the Mother Shipton estate, following the Beryl Burton Way along Bilton Lane to start and returning to Knaresborough by same route.

• Parking: See above

• Toilets: none along route other than at Gardener's pub

• Refreshments: Gardener's pub