England's redundant railway lines would have made a marvellous, vast network of footpaths crisscrossing the land if so many of them hadn't been bulldozed away or built on. Some, at least in part, remain and have been successfully converted for use by walkers, cyclists and horseriders.

The Spen Valley Greenway is one example in this part of the world. So, hopefully, will the Great Northern Trail be when the six miles of former rail route between Cullingworth and Queensbury are eventually fully reopened. There is a useful and well appreciated few miles of former track, too, from the far side of Wetherby to Spofforth.

One of Derbyshire's big successes is the High Peak Trail which, incorporating the Midshire Way and Tissington Trail, virtually links Ashbourne with Buxton along the twisting and turning line of a dismantled railway.

A rather more modest but very well used route is the Monsal Trail, which runs for 8 miles from Coombs viaduct, a mile south-east of Bakewell, to Topley Pike near Buxton. Most of it is along the railway, though it diverts from time to time to avoid tunnels. It follows in part the route of the attractive River Wye, crossing it by impressive viaducts and at its western end offering impressive views of Monsal Dale.

The 3-mile stretch of it that we walked, though, was at its eastern end and largely away from the river, which our circular walk joined for the return journey of this six-mile outing. Nevertheless, our route took us through some very pretty countryside and provided us with some pleasant surprises.

On a Saturday in early September we set off from the busy tourist town of Bakewell, from where footpaths fan out in all directions and the car park is invariably busy with a mix of local shoppers loading their boots and walkers pulling on theirs.

We headed up the hill to the former station and joined the Monsal trail there, walking easily eastwards on the level path between embankments rich in berry-laden bushes and a profusion of late-blooming wildflowers. The fields we passed were filled with sheep and cattle taking it easy in the early-autumn sunshine.

It soon became obvious that this is a very popular weekend route. Several other pairs and small groups of walkers and a single chap with his dog were strung out ahead of us. Cyclists kept passing us by in both directions. Some even had bells, and this before the Government had decided to force them to do so! Most people we encountered, whether on foot or on wheels, gave us a pleasant "Good morning". This is a friendly place.

First pleasant surprise came only a mile out, at the former Hassop Station where, alongside the track, is a huge public car park and the Country Bookstore and Tearoom. A very popular place, this, with walkers and motorists enjoying tea and snacks at the tables both inside and outside between browsing through the excellent selection of books.

What a distraction from the business of walking though! We eventually tore ourselves away, two books heavier, and continued along the route which, a little over two miles further on, arrived at the impressive Thornbridge Station buildings and, next to them, the even more impressive, privately-owned Thornbridge Hall - a well-preserved Georgian pile popular for conferences and weddings and with Thornbridge Brewery occupying some of the outbuildings.

It was only a little further along the trail that we rather reluctantly turned away from the railway to follow a field path southwards. But we had other sights to see. And I don't just mean the fine herd of Longhorn cattle we passed in a field along the route.

The village of Ashford-in-the-Water is a delightful place of fine houses and pretty cottages with a Norman church, a brace of pubs and, curving over the Wye, Sheepwash Bridge at the point where the local flocks used to be dipped.

We left here past the cricket field and over another bridge where the words "M. Hyde 1664" etched into the parapet we learned later referred to an unfortunate man who was crossing on a horse laden with sacks of flour when the wind blew him into the river and he drowned. The fate of the horse isn't known. Or of the flour. If that had tumbled into the deep pool below as well, what a Yorkshire pudding that would have made!

From here we followed the River Wye downstream through gentle meadows, in one of which llama grazed, until we reached the A6 via a small housing estate. From here we set off down the pavement towards Bakewell alongside a main road busy with traffic. It wasn't much fun, so when we arrived at a bridge heading to the left into the Riverside Business Park we followed that route. Although it was signed as a private road, we assumed that related to vehicles rather than walkers as it continued along the far side of the river, past houses and gardens, to arrive at an ancient footbridge.

From here, a bit of pavement walking took us to a stile into a meadow and a footpath which led us back to the river and into the heart of Bakewell once again.

Step by Step

  1. From centre of Bakewell, follow Bridge Street to cross river. Turn right past car park then swing left up Station Road. At top, head left-ish through car park of former Bakewell Station to join railway track.
  2. Turn left. Walk on for a mile to Hassop Station and Country Bookstore and pause to browse for a while if you like. Then continue another 2 miles to Thornbridge station and Hall. Not far beyond, at the end of a cutting and under a bridge, go left following sign to leave the railway track and start to head south towards Ashford-in-the-Water.
  3. Follow well-defined grassy path to a stile and continue with small wood on left initially to arrive at stile into narrow lane. Cross over and through another stile walk along fieldside then swing right to gate stile above farm on right. Stick with this path, descending, through field to arrive at B6465 road. Cross into field opposite to arrive at narrow lane. Turn left and walk on to junction. Keep ahead briefly, descending, then take left-hand fork downhill passing houses to arrive in centre of Ashford, with pub ahead. (From here you can walk on through village, passing pub on left and then church on right, to arrive at Sheepwash Bridge or make a detour right to toilets at car park).
  4. Returning to pub at corner, go right and walk up to A6020 road and cross with care. Join dead-end road to right of cricket field and walk on to cross bridge (with inscription) and arrive at A6. Go left briefly, then left again into field to join clear riverside path through a succession of stile to eventually pass through snicket between houses into small estate. Go right up to A6 and turn left.
  5. Walk downhill on pavement. At entrance to Riverside Business Park go left across bridge then swing right to follow road between river and houses to footbridge at far end. Continue ahead on pavement, leaving river briefly. With West Lodge on left, go right through stile into field and join river again, heading for centre of Bakewell. At gate stile, again follow riverbank to where path leads up to a gate near road bridge. Cross this to return to centre of town.
Fact File

  • Set-off point: Centre of Bakewell (alternatively, at Ashford-in-the-Water).
  • Time for 6-mile walk: 2-3 hours.
  • Going: easy.
  • Map: OS Explorer OL24, Peak District White Peak area.
  • Getting there: follow M1 to J29 then head for Chesterfield and follow A619 to Baslow. Go left with A619 here, soon turning right with it to Bakewell.
  • Parking: large pay-and-display car parks in Bakewell; small free car park in Ashford and limited roadside parking.
  • Refreshments: lots of everything in Bakewell, two pubs in Ashford and tearoom at Country Bookstore.
  • Toilets: near car parks in Bakewell, at Country Bookstore, and at Ashford car park.