Beauty of Bolton Abbey

8:13am Monday 17th December 2007

There are many jewels in the crown of the Duke of Devonshire's 30,000-acre Bolton Abbey estate near Skipton.

Not least of them is The Devonshire Arms Country House Hotel, recently voted hotel of the year (up to 50 rooms) in the 2007 White Rose Awards for Tourism.

It fell to me to find out whether the hotel - which boasts a Michelin Star chef - is indeed the best the county has to offer and to uncover the delights of the estate. Well, someone's got to do it!

The gothic grandeur of the ruins of Bolton Abbey, the 12th century Augustinian priory, provides a dramatic backdrop for the estate.

Walkers and families alike can enjoy the 80 miles of footpaths across some of England's most spectacular countryside. Stiles have even been removed and replaced with gates to allow pushchairs to get through.

A four-and-a-half mile stretch of water on the estate is perfect for anglers. And, for the less energetic, there are three gift shops and the Pantry food store to be perused.

The spectacular Strid is where the River Wharfe suddenly has to dash through a narrow chasm.

The Strid was formed by the wearing away of softer rock by the circular motion of small stones in hollows, forming potholes which linked together to form a deep, water-filled chasm. The Strid gets its name from the fact that it's said to be a stride' wide, but it is wider than it looks and has claimed the lives of many people attempting to jump across.

The rocks are usually very slippery, and anyone visiting the area must be aware that it's a dangerous spot, perhaps best viewed from a distance.

Also to be found at Bolton Abbey is Barden Tower, principle hunting lodge of the ancient Forest of Barden and home of the tenth Lord of Skipton, more commonly known as the Shepherd Lord. The ruined tower overlooks the Priest's House, built in the early 16th century by the Shepherd Lord for his private chaplain.

Embsay and Bolton Abbey Steam Railway is also on the doorstop, and Santa is currently taking time out of his busy schedule to delight youngsters at the weekend until December 23.

The Devonshire Arms Hotel is a former 17th century coaching inn, and boasts 41 rooms.

A sense of the building's history has been retained, with its stone walls and roaring fires, but contemporary touches have been added, including a conservatory dining area.

On entering, it almost feels as though you are intruding on a lazy Sunday afternoon at the family home of the current Duke and Duchess of Devonshire, Peregrine and Amanda Cavendish.

Comfy furniture and pictures have been re-located from their full-time Chatsworth residence into the old part of the hotel. Fires and an old piano, piled with books and sheet music, complete the homely feel to the place.

A separate spa is just across the road. It includes a pool, sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi. Guests are treated to separate changing rooms, towels and friendly staff.

After a relaxing hour in the spa, my boyfriend and I made our way back for dinner and were stopped in our tracks at the sight of a kingfisher perched at the side of the river. We stood transfixed at the rare treat as he swooped back and forth until finally disappearing out of sight.

Relaxed and refreshed, we took champagne and aperitifs before dinner in head chef Michael Wignall's Burlington restaurant.

Mr Wignall joined the hotel in 2002, and eight months later the restaurant was awarded the culinary seal of excellence promptly followed by a fourth AA rosette. It is now the highest-rated restaurant in the county.

We ordered foie gras, deer and pigeon. Fish also heavily features on the menu, including wild salmon, scallops and John Dory.

Dainty pieces of food in squares, circles and oblongs garnished our glistening white plates, with a splash and a swirl of sauce here and there.

The tastes were extraordinary, and while I found the three-course meal, with two Velouté sauces - one savoury and one sweet - in between and coffee with petits fours rich, tasty and filling, the boyfriend joked about getting fish and chips afterwards.

Just one thing - the chocolate dessert was made with liquorice. You just don't mess with chocolate.

The staff were super-efficient, professional and almost seemed to sense when you were ready for more bread rolls and your next culinary delight.

An award-winning catalogue inches thick is available for the wine connoisseur, but we stuck with a classic bottle of red. We enjoyed ourselves so much that when we looked up, we were the last in the room and staff were trying to look busy so as not to kick us out.

In the morning, we were greeted with a mound of croissants, cereals and fruit with the option of ordering a full English breakfast. But, the bottle of red wine and champers had taken their toll, and we were mortified that we couldn't take full advantage of the offerings.

I have woken up in cities all around the world on my birthday, including Paris and Venice, but it was truly a delight to wake up on my special day this year in the surroundings of Bolton Abbey, where I was presented with a card and chocolates from the staff.

Is it the best hotel in Yorkshire? It can't be far off.

Factfile

• The Devonshire Arms is five miles east of Skipton and is located on the B6160, approximately 250 yards north of a roundabout connecting to the A59 trunk road.

• Prices start from £145 per room per night, bed and breakfast.

• An evening meal at the Michelin Star Burlington restaurant costs just under £60 per person.

• For more information ring (01756) 718111, or visit www.thedevonshirearms.co.uk

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