For the past 20 years or so, the draw to Leeds for me has been music.

From punk rock shows in the sweaty back room of the Duchess of York to crammed indie gigs at the Cockpit, the city has been an exciting destination since my late teens.

These days, the biggest attraction was the girl who is now my fiancée – the reason I moved down from Teesside. She likes the more refined aspects of Leeds – more mohitos than mosh-pits – and for the last five years, has opened my eyes to the more elegant side of the city.

There is so much on offer in Leeds, from the shopping experience, including Harvey Nichols, the designer shops in the stunning Victoria Quarter and the food and fashion at the Corn Exchange, which can give one’s credit cards a battering, to the museums and galleries such as the Royal Armouries and Leeds City Museum.

Over the last few years, we’ve worked our way round the city’s many marvellous restaurants and bistros, have enjoyed a good few drinks in the bars and cocktail lounges, and we’re still discovering new places to visit.

But some of the best evenings have been spent at the Malmaison hotel on Swinegate, just a few minutes’ walk from the train station and city centre.

Whether it’s a cheeky cocktail in the relaxed bar before a night on Call Lane, or a more romantic meal in the intimate brasserie, it has become one of our favourite destinations for a well-deserved night out.

But to get the most out of the Mal experience, an overnight stay is a must. Housed in a grand building which used to be a tram and bus depot, the hotel is effortlessly chic.

It may appear fine and fastidious – the grand reception area oozes quirky Napoleonic charm – but the hotel has a bit of a rock edge to it, and has welcomed many bands which play in the city and Leeds Festival in the summer.

We were told The Prodigy and their entourage stayed a couple of years ago, and were very mild-mannered and polite. Not a single TV thrown through a window.

All the rooms are worked around the original spaces of the building and our room was tucked away from the main road down a deep-coloured corridor, past a grand set of doors signed as ‘The Depot’ – the hotel’s suite.

With floor-to-ceiling windows lined with heavy curtains to two sides, and crisp king-size bed, our corner room was so inviting. The bathroom – an original feature, though modernised somewhat – came complete with luxurious bath robes. Very posh.

There wasn’t much time to enjoy the comfort too much, though, as soon we were heading down the road to Latitude Wine on the delightfully-named Cherry Tree Walk to sample some of their top tipple at a wine-tasting event.

What owner Chris Hill doesn’t know about the world’s wines is not worth knowing. As we browsed the shelves of reds, whites and roses, we sipped on a vintage Saint Clair Riesling, a delicious white wine from New Zealand, and a 2009 Fleurie, a soft, fruity Beaujolais.

I’m a relative latecomer to the world of wine – my more mature taste buds have grown a liking for a good merlot and a sharp chardonnay...

The friendly wine merchant hosts a free wine-tasting event every Friday night, and the samples are enough to inspire a well-researched purchase or two.

Back at Malmaison, we freshened up (it may have been an excuse to spend a bit more time in our room) before heading down to the brasserie with its vaulted ceiling and crackling open fireplace – perfect surroundings to get away from the chilly streets outside.

The food at Mal is fantastic, rustic, hearty and delicious. As well as the juicy steaks, game and fish, the vegetarian dishes are pretty tempting options. Controversially, I’m going to suggest passing on a dessert, no matter how alluring the sticky toffee pudding is, and go for the cheese board - possibly the highlight of the evening.

Still on our cheese and quince chutney high, we headed up to the Mint Hotel’s SkyLounge in nearby Granary Wharf for a few cocktails – and great panoramic views of the city and beyond.

This – to me, at least – is a fantastic secret hidden up on the 13th floor. Unlucky for some, but not for the packed crowd enjoying a few drinks in the relaxed, refined surroundings. We figured it would be the perfect place to take in a different view of Bonfire Night displays for miles around. We’ll try that out later this year – at least my Mohito Britannia would stay chilled for longer on the outdoor terrace.

The night was still young so back in the Mal bar, more cocktails were ordered. Remembering our last visit there, when we had sat between Julian Lloyd Webber and Jimmy Carr, we were almost disappointed not to stumble into a celeb having an aftershow drink or two.

The basement-style bar is a delight to spend time in. Hen and stag parties celebrate in style, couples tuck themselves into secluded corners for romantic evenings, and families laugh together over bottles of wine. The atmosphere never gets too lively, yet has enough appeal to enjoy an entire night there.

Next morning, after skipping the use of the hotel’s private gym in favour of a hearty full English breakfast, I managed to get a sneak peek into the rock’n’roll-themed Depot suite, which boasts a huge walk-in bath with spectacular overhead ‘monsoon’ shower and plasma TVs. You can only imagine the antics that take place behind those doors when a band and their crew check in...

Wait, I’ve said my highlight was the cheese board. That may be true, but it’s not exactly rock n roll, is it?