Afternoon delight

Afternoon tea, usually taken between three and five o’clock, is a tradition kept up in fine hotels and tea-rooms. It generally consists of dainty sandwiches, with such fillings as thinly-sliced cucumber, smoked salmon or egg and cress, followed by scones with strawberry jam and clotted cream and a choice of cakes. Tea with cold milk or slices of lemon is also served.

It seems we have Anna Russell, the 7th Duchess of Bedford, to thank for inventing afternoon tea in the early 19th century. The Duchess is said to have complained of hunger pangs during the afternoon – at the time it was usual to have just two daily meals, breakfast and dinner – and she kept hunger at bay with a pot of tea and a light snack of bread, butter, cakes and biscuits, taken privately in her boudoir. Later, friends were invited to join her for tea at Woburn Abbey which proved so popular that the Duchess continued the practice when she returned to London. Other ladies in fashionable circles started sending their own invitations to friends and soon, whenever the clock struck 4pm, the high society set could be found in drawing rooms sipping tea and nibbling cake. A rather complex set of rules and etiquette accompanied the social gatherings, which grew with the expansion of the Victorian middle classes.

When Lyon’s tea house opened, women started joining each other for tea in an “acceptable atmosphere”. In 1919 tea dances became popular, continuing through the Second World War. Although the Duchess of Bedford was one of the first ladies known to indulge in afternoon snacks, the tea dance is thought to be the precursor of afternoon tea as we know it.

These days afternoon tea isn’t so much a formal daily ritual as an occasional treat in genteel cafes during shopping trips or country breaks.

In hotels it remains a tradition. Tea at The Ritz has been an institution since the early 1900s and each year the UK Tea Council gives a special award to hotels in recognition of high standards in tea service.

Now afternoon tea has become fashionable again. You’re as likely to see hip young professionals in Sex and the City-style designer heels tucking into cup cakes and cuppas as older ladies in tweed two-pieces.

Kate Moss, Victoria Beckham and Madonna have all been spotted enjoying the afternoon indulgence.

The Great Victoria hotel in Bradford has launched regular afternoon teas raising funds for different charities. “Afternoon teas have become quite a craze in London,” says spokesman Sue France. “Great Victoria, like other grand Victorian station hotels, had a tradition of serving sedate afternoon teas to the people of Bradford and we like the idea of bringing back this civilised idea.”

The original Calendar Girls were guests at the Great Victoria’s first afternoon tea. The members of Rylstone and District Women’s Institute, who famously bared all for a nude calendar raising £2 million for Leukaemia Research, were treated to an afternoon reception hosted by the charity. The WI ladies took tea with actresses Patricia Hodge and Lynda Bellingham, stars of the stage version of the Calendar Girls story. Angela Baker, whose husband John’s death inspired the charity calendar, said: “It’s lovely that they have decided to do afternoon tea – how WI is that?” More recently, supporters of Bradford Cancer Support’s Daisy Appeal raised hundreds of pounds from an afternoon of tea and cakes at the hotel. Backed by the Telegraph & Argus, the Daisy Appeal raised £1.4 million for Daisy House Farm, a building at Bradford Royal Infirmary providing support for cancer patients and their carers.

Around 60 guests, including cancer patients and their families, turned out to the afternoon tea. Cream slices and fairy cakes adorned pretty cake stands, and dainty sandwiches were arranged on china plates. Guests sipped tea and chatted as music was played by a string quartet. “It’s genteel and civilised, a pleasant way to spend an afternoon and raise funds and awareness,” said Hayley Collis, corporate fundraiser for Bradford Cancer Support.

Earlier this year former Lord Mayor of Bradford, Councillor Howard Middleton, raised funds for his appeal supporting Bradford Alzheimer’s Society with afternoon tea at the Great Victoria. Youngsters from Bradford theatre school Stage 84 sang for the Lord Mayor and his guests.

A consumer study by hotel chain Travelodge reveals that six out of ten Brits will be planning to enjoy an afternoon tea this summer. And, making it accessible during the credit crunch, the company has launched a budget cream tea for just 99p.The tasty treat includes a large scone, a pot of Cornish clotted cream, strawberry or raspberry jam and a collection of teas.

Travelodge polled 6,000 Brits about the revival of afternoon tea. Findings revealed that, whereas traditionally it was mainly women indulging in the custom, today 51 per cent of British men were doing so too. According to the survey, 48 per cent associate having afternoon tea with a UK holiday or short break, 17 per cent have afternoon tea at least once a week, 13 per cent enjoy it while shopping and 14 per cent turn to it as a pick-me-up.

Guy Parsons, Travelodge UK managing director said: “Our budget 99p cream tea is going to be a big attraction this summer, with 2009 being such a big year for the British holiday. Our seaside and tourism locations are booming and we know these customers want to enjoy our culture’s great traditions, including the cream tea.”

Keith Newton, Afternoon Tea Connoisseur and founder of the website afternoontea.co.uk, said: “Rather than suffering a downturn during the credit crunch, we have seen a steady month-on-month rise in visitors and bookings, which is testament to the fact that taking afternoon tea is an increasingly popular occasion. Britons are turning back to their traditional pastime – it’s comfort food at an affordable price.”