Royal backing is paying dividends as campaign fights for wool’s future

WITH a royal fanfare the Campaign for Wool was officially launched in Bradford six years ago this month.

It was instigated by the Prince of Wales to try and increase the demand for and price of wool, a natural sustainable product which accounts for only just over one per cent of global fibre consumption.

This natural fibre was the basis of Bradford's fortunes for more than a century, leading to the city becoming known as Woolopolis and building an international trading base.

The remaining West Yorkshire spinners and weavers have thrown their weight behind the Campaign for Wool, whose impact could boost their own fortunes.

At a recent conference to emphasise wool's green credentials and sustainability, the Prince of Wales committed to remain as patron of the organisation which he, as a sheep farmer on his Highgrove estate, inspired.

One of the key figures in the Campaign for Wool is industry veteran Peter Ackroyd. Shipley-based Mr Ackroyd is the Campaign's chief operations officer as well as being president of the International Wool Textile Organisation.

He said: "We are delighted The Prince of Wales has agreed to a further five years as patron of the Campaign for Wool

"Since it's humble beginnings in 2010, the Campaign has worked with around 1,000 global retail partners who are readily willing to promote the natural and sustainable properties of wool.

"If consumers are prepared to invest in wool products, not only will they enjoy a return on their capital invested, they will be making a very positive contribution to the environment. "Just seven years ago, wool was in danger of becoming a fibre of the past. The Campaign has ensured the viability of wool farming in the UK and the Commonwealth and the prosperity of wool processing in the West Yorkshire region."

Since its Bradford launch, the Campaign has focused on signing up textile designers, retailers and processors to the cause.

Peter Ackroyd, who was made an MBE for his service to the industry in 2006, says the Campaign for Wool has helped push up wool prices to a point where it is sustainable for farmers to raise sheep in the UK, Australia, New Zealand and South Africa, rather than turning to crops and cattle.

"Wool consumption remains too low at around 1.3 per cent of fibre against about eight per cent 50 years ago, so there is a long way to go. But the Campaign is having a positive effect and the more impact we can have, the better the prospects for the remaining mills in Bradford, Huddersfield and Leeds, " he said.

Moving forward, the Campaign will increase its marketing and promotional activities in the United States, Canada, Japan, France and Germany,

The Prince of Wales presided over the signing of the Dumfries House Declaration in September at the inaugural Dumfries House Wool Conference.

The declaration is a promise by the Campaign’s Commonwealth funders, including the Bradford-based British Wool Marketing Board, Australian Wool Innovation, The Woolmark Company, Cape Wools South Africa and The Campaign for Wool New Zealand to commit their time, efforts and talent to promoting the natural benefits and properties of wool.

The Prince said: “I am going to do everything I possibly can to build on the success we have achieved, thus ensuring that wool receives proper recognition for all its wonderful, natural attributes.

"The Campaign for Wool started when a few of us decided to see what could be done to reverse the decline in the wool industry.

"We wanted to ensure a sustainable supply of wool from across the Commonwealth and beyond. And to do that we knew we would have to raise awareness amongst consumers about the unique benefits offered by wool and draw attention to the ecological advantages it delivers.

"Apart from anything else raising awareness about wool's remarkable natural fire retardant properties seemed to me essential in an age dominated by health and safety concerns and the known dangers within interiors of houses of highly inflammable, synthetic furnishings, carpets and clothing."

Prince Charles said the Campaign had been backed by around 500 global manufacturers and retailers over the last five years, all seeking to stress their commitment to wool as a high-quality renewable fibre .

"I have to say I am much encouraged by what has been achieved so far. It has been an enormously imaginative and energetic campaign, capturing a great deal of attention which I need hardly say is exactly what we set out to do!

"One of the great successes of the campaign has been the way in which four previously rival wool organizations – representing the United Kingdom, Australia, South Africa and New Zealand – came together under the umbrella of the Campaign for Wool.

"They each provided essential funding and I am pleased to say that they have had a good return on their investment, with the Campaign generating a global Advertising Value Equivalent that has averaged around £34 million in each of the last three years.

"It is never easy to be entirely clear about cause and effect, but during the life of the Campaign there has certainly been some encouraging progress in the overall situation.

"In general terms, wool prices are higher; sheep numbers are stable in most markets; designers are using more wool and there is greater appreciation of wool's many excellent qualities. And all that has led to generally higher morale in the wool industry.

"So despite some remaining storm clouds and challenges, the overall picture is considerably positive.

"This is precisely the time to be pressing on, with our collective foot firmly on the accelerator. There is simply so much more to be done and an urgent need to press home the many advantages of choosing wool in the world of today and tomorrow," the Prince added.

He said he wanted to see hundreds of wool growers, brokers, spinners, designers, fashion houses, manufacturers, retailers and others embracing the Campaign for Wool's message.

The Dumfries House conference was sponsored by Marks & Spencer, whose chief executive Steve Rowe, who said: “M&S has been using wool for over 90 years, and throughout this time we’ve strived to keep innovating and expanding our wool offer, from when we introduced wool socks in 1926, to when we brought machine washable wool to the high street in 1972.

“Today, we are one of the leading retailers of wool items. This season alone we’ve bought over three million wool products and will use over 3,500 tonnes of wool throughout the year, confirming our commitment to championing wool as a preferred fabric across our collections.”

He stressed his commitment to British textile manufacturing, saying that many of the retailer's woollen and worsted fabrics being produced in the UK

"British textile manufacturing was challenged in the 1980s and 90s but with the launch of our Best of British range, I'm proud to say that one again M&S is increasing the number of products that we sell that are made in the UK. And I intend to continue this programme for the foreseeable future," Mr Rowe said.

M&S's long-standing relationships, included those with worsted manufacturers Abraham Moon in Guiseley and Alfred Brown in Bramley.

Peter Ackroyd said the Campaign for Wool and IWTO were aiming to attract another 500 supporters .

"The support will grow expotentially as the wool supply chain quickly realises the eminently sensible approach to environmental issues the Declaration sets out.

" I see the Declaration as a timely reaffirmation of the environmental excellence of wool and principally aimed at decision makers further down the pipeline hitherto unaware of wool's credentials,"he said.

Another local woolman closely involved in the Campaign for Wool is Martin Curtis who, until recently was co-owner of Curtis Wools, which includes Howarth Scouring and Combing in Bradford- which process most of the annual British wool clip.

Prince Charles toured Haworth Scouring during the Campaign's launch in 2020.

Mr Curtis, who founded the Wool Carpet Focus Group two years ago, also welcomed the Prince of Wales's decision tor remain patron of the Campaign for Wool.

He said: "The Prince's personal commitment and royal prestige has played a vital part in raising the awareness and appreciation of wool's great attributes to consumers and all areas of the industry.

"It started out as an attempt to ensure sheep farmers could earn a decent living as wool p[rices plummeted and it has helped achieve that. On a wider front the Campaign, which the Wool Carpet Focus Group supports and echoes, is doing a good job in communicating the undoubted green credentials of this wonderful natural fibre."

Peter Ackroyd praised the amount of time Prince Charles commits to the Campaign for Wool in his busy schedule.

"The Prince is very hands on and committed to the cause. I have been surprised and impressed by the amount of time he spends on the Campaign and his involvement is invaluable," he said.

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